Alexandria

31° 12′ 0″ N, 29° 55′ 0″ E

Alexandria: The Mediterranean Echo and the Vanished Cosmopolitan Soul

A special place in this journey is reserved to Alexadnria, where our adventure to Egypt had started. The city founded by the great conqueror Alexander, first of its name and later kingdom of the beautiful, legendary queen Cleopatra, and setting of her stormy love story with Julius Caesar and Mark Antony. During the Hellenistic period, it was home to both the legendary Great Library of Alexandria and the Pharos, a lighthouse ranking among the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and still the symbol of the city today. Home to Euclid, Archimedes, and later Hypatia, the city still conserves parts of its magnificent legacy from the ancient past—the Roman Amphitheatre, Pompey's Pillar, and the Catacombs—while most of the ancient city still lies hidden beneath modern buildings and constructions.

Alexandria finally! / Alexandria dewdrop. / Explosion of white clouds. / You're like a flower in bloom wet from sprayed water rays in the sky. / Heart of honey soaked memories and tears.

Naghib Mahfouz

Spot for intellectuals like Lawrence Durrell and Constantine Kavafis in the early twentieth century, hometown of authors like Giuseppe Ungaretti and Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, Alexandria became a vivid cultural city where many European languages were heard around the streets.

A cosmopolitan landscape survives from this old, fascinating city—once home to different cultures like no other place in the world, unique for its peaceful coexistence of diverse languages and religions. Egyptians living alongside people from Greece, Lebanon, Italy, and France; Islam standing beside the Orthodox, Coptic, and Catholic Churches; the Arab spirit mixed with the European soul.

It is a coastal metropolis where the ghosts of this cosmopolitan past still whisper through crumbling Art Deco balconies, seaside cornices, and historic cafes.

“Just walk a bit / along the straight road that ends at the Hippodrome / and you’ll see palaces and monuments that will amaze you. / Whatever war-damage it’s suffered, / however much smaller it’s become, / it’s still a wonderful city.”

Constantine Kavafis

Thus, Alexandria retains a bittersweet, nostalgic charm. It is the place where melancholy grabs you from the bottom of your heart and catches you wondering about the city that used to be, both in the near and distant past.

What to Visit: Landmarks of Sea and History

Alexandria

Sleep

The Bibliotheca Alexandrina: A striking, ultra-modern architectural masterpiece rising along the corniche like a tilted sun, paying homage to the ancient wonder of the world and housing millions of books.

The Citadel of Qaitbay: A 15th-century defensive fortress built right on the Mediterranean shore, occupying the exact historic site of the ancient Pharos Lighthouse using some of its salvaged stones.

Montaza Palace and Royal Gardens: An expansive, stunning royal estate at the eastern edge of the city, featuring eclectic architecture that blends Florentine and Ottoman styles, surrounded by immense pine groves and royal gardens facing private azure coves.

The Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa: A fascinating underground necropolis that reveals a unique blending of Pharaonic, Greek, and Roman funerary art and architecture.

The Corniche and Historic Cafes: A scenic seaside promenade where you can feel the timeless maritime breeze, stopping at historic intellectual coffee houses like Trianon that keep the memory of Alexandria’s literary past alive.

Eat & drink

White & Blu Restaurant - Greek Club

This restaurant is a must in the city. Overlooking the coastline and its skyline, it offers the best fish in town in a unique atmosphere. You can also choose your own fish from the fish stand. Only the Fish Market can compete, but doesn't offer the same breath-taking view. Olive Island, one floor up, makes you feel like you are in Greece. Alcohol is served.

Delices Patisserie

This patisserie is an historic spot still run by a greek family, located in the beautiful Saad Zaghloul square and surrounded by great old classic palaces in front of the sea. You can just sit outside and have a great breakfast in the morning, while looking at the everyday life of Alexandrians around you. It also offers food at every hour, and alcohol too.

Chez Gaby

This restaurant really maintans the charme of old times. Although real Italian food is a bit far from this, you can surely breathe the Italian atmosphere in this small yet very comfortable old taverna. Pizza, pasta and alcohol are offered.

Teatro Eskendria

Teatro Eskendria is a lovely place located in a small street in Mohattat El Raml, with a nice wooden open air spot. They serve delicious charateristic food, and offer shesha. It is the perfect place to meet with friends at every hour, for homework or a reading as well. It is a relaxed, perfect spot for students ant intellectuals.

Scala

Located a bit out of the city in the Carrefour area known as "Downtown", this hidden restaurant has a great and relaxed style, and they also make a very good pizza. The outside offers a cosy green spot to take a break from the noise of the city.

Taverna

Directly on the sea, it worths a visit just to breathe some fresh air and admire the view. It is on the corniche at Shatby Al-Bahr, and offers food throughout all the day, and shisha too.